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Monogram 1965 Ford GT Assembly Sheet

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Painting Suggestions

Although your racer is ready to run without painting, many slot car modelers enjoy adding additional detail. Use only ENAMEL or PAINTS FOR STYRENE PLASTIC. A small pointed brush is best for painting details.

It is best to paint some parts before the model is assembled, Allow paint to dry thoroughly and then scrape paint away from areas which will be cemented. Cement does not hold well to paint. Suggested colors are listed below.

BLACK Entire interior platform - windshield frame - front edge of scoops.
SILVER Windshield wiper - headlights - gas caps - exhaust pipes - door and body panel latches - controls on dash - steering wheel spoke.
DARK BLUE Entire top of front panel except for number circle - stripe on roof and hack.
RED Stoplight lenses
DRIVER Flesh face, white helmet, light blue coveralls, brown gloves, silver goggles, and black goggle strap.


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Applying Decals

After your racer has been assembled, apply decal racing numbers in locations shown here and on front page. Cut away portion of decal to be applied, with scissors. Dip the decal in water for a few moments until it slides easily on the paper backing. Next slide the decal onto car in correct position. After the decal is in position press out trapped air bubbles and blot with a soft cloth.

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Monogram 1965 Ford GT Assembly Instructions

1. Press three brass screw inserts fully into sockets on the underside of the platform interior so that the brass flanges touch the plastic. Insert a 4-40 screw into each insert and tighten screws using screwdriver end of wrench furnished. This expands the inserts and holds them in place. Now remove the screws completely and set them aside for later use.
2. Open the small plastic tube of cement included by piercing tip of nozzle with a pin. Apply cement to top of clear window unit and attach to inside fear body. Replace pin into tip of cement tube.
3. Attach clear headlight covers. These are stamped R for right and L for left side.
4. Cement driver's head to pin on platform interior. If you plan to do detail painting of the driver and interior refer to "Painting Suggestions" before attaching unit to body. Now cement platform interior into place. Fit two re notches on rear of platform under pins at rear of body and fit forward notch over rib at front. Set body aside and begin chassis assembly.
5. Slip swing pickup spring onto ends of swing pickup arm as shown. Make sure front end of pickup arm and spring are positioned as shown. Loop at front of swing pickup arm should be towards top. Now fit unit into holes in frame #26. Three small holes are punched in frame for regulating tension on pickup arm. If more tension is desired insert ends of spring into second or third hole. Ends of spring protruding through small holes may be bent over against frame with fingers to prevent them from coming out.
6. Hold motor so that red wire lead is at top. Fit front brass bracket onto end of motor. Fasten bracket with two self-tapping screws with small heads. It is important that you use the screws with small heads in this step. Press in on screw while turning it with screwdriver end of wrench in order to start the threads into the plastic.
7. Fasten frame #26 to rear axle bracket and front motor bracket with four 2-56 brass screws and hex nuts. Make sure green motor lead is at top as shown. Do not tighten screws completely at this time.
8. With the 2-56 screws and nuts loosened, slide frame until center of 8 front axle hole is exactly 2-29/32 inches from center of rear axle hole. Place unit over full size drawing for correct distance. Now tighten all four frame screws completely. Make sure frame is still in same position after tightening screws.
9. Press the tires onto each of the four wheels. Wide rear slicks go onto the wide wheels. Narrow front tires go onto narrow wheels. Make sure tire is pressed down completely into axle I'll wheel so that wheel will roll true when it is assembled onto the chassis. See cress section drawing for proper tire mounting.
10. Insert the 6-32 headless set screw pan way into crown gear and set aside. Thread a 5-40 hex nut onto one end of axle. Next thread a rear wheel with wide tire onto axle until end of axle extends 1/16 inch beyond hole inside wheel. Thread the hex nut up to the rear face of the wheel. Do not tighten nut at this time. Slip a #2 nylon wheel spacer and one of the bronze hearings onto axle with flange end of bearing toward wheel. Hold crown gear in position shown and slide end of axle through hole in frame and through hole in opposite side of frame. Rotate bronze bearing until flat side lines up with flat edge of hole in frame and press bearing into bole.
11. Slip remaining bronze bearing onto axle and rotate bearing until it slips into bole in frame. Next slip a #2 nylon wheel spacer onto axle and thread a 5-40 hex nut onto end. Thread remaining wheel with wide tire onto axis. Adjust wheels and hex nuts so that equal amounts of the axle protrude through the wheels. Tighten nuts against wheels making sure that axle spins freely with just a paper thickness of side play to prevent any binding. Now slide crown gear against pinion on motor and tighten set screw. Make certain gears do not mesh too tightly.
12. Thread a 5-40 hex nut onto one end of axle. Next thread a wheel with small tire onto end of axle, until end of axle is flush with surface of inside of wheel. Thread the hex nut up to the rear face of the wheel. Do not tighten at this time. Slip a #5 nylon wheel spacer onto axle. Slide axle through boles in front of frame.
13. Slip a #5 nylon wheel spacer onto end of axle and thread a 5-40 hex nut onto end. Thread the remaining wheel onto axle and make sure equal amounts of the axle protrude through the wheels. Tighten nuts against back of wheels as before, making sure axle spins freely with slight side play.
14. Insert self tapping screw into bole n braided pickup contact. Insert screw into hole in top of pickup shoe and tighten down part way only (wire leads from motor will be fitted under wire leads later). Repeat with screw and pickup braid on opposite side of pickup shoe. Bend pickup braids down and back over front edge of pickup shoe.
15. Fit post on pickup shoe through hole in swing pickup arm. Slip Banged bushing onto post on pickup shoe with flange towards top. Insert a 2-56 screw part way into threaded hole in brass collar and slide collar over post on pickup shoe. Tighten screw to lock collar onto post. Make sure head of screw is toward front of chassis as shown.
16. Bring motor leads over top of frame. Stretch leads out fully and cut them 1-1/2" beyond screws on the pickup shoe. Strip off 1/2" of insulation from ends of leads. Fit exposed wire leads under screw heads on pickup shoe with red lead on left side. Tighten screws.
17. Place chassis on table as shown and press four plated wheel inserts into wheels as far as they will go. Next cement knock off caps into holes in wheels. Scrape away plating where cement is to he applied because cement will not hold to the plating. If plated wheel inserts should ever have to be removed from wheels, thread an axle into wheel to force the insert out.
18. Fasten body to chassis with three 4-40 screws. Check pickup shoe to make certain exposed pickup wires are not touching each other. Adjust wire leads from motor so that pickup arm will swing freely without hanging up at front of body. See Racing Tips.